How to Check the Refrigerator Compressor

Did the technique stop turning on and working? First of all, make a diagnosis of the motor – this part is called “heart.” How to check the refrigerator compressor? If you do not want to go to the service center and pay the master, we will tell you how to do the work with your own hands.

 

How it works and the engine is working.

The refrigerator of any model (“Atlanta,” “Indesit,” “Stinol”) is generally the same. It is based on the circulation of the refrigerant (freon) in the system. Initially, the refrigerant is gas; the compressor’s pressure contributes to its entry into the capacitor. There the gas cools turns into liquid and flows into a vaporizer. When heated, the liquid goes into the primary state and repeats the cycle.

Therefore, if the compressor has problems, it will not create pressure or be enough for normal operation.

The cooling degree – the temperature in the chamber – regulates the thermostat. From it, the signal goes to the engine’s trigger relay, which triggers the whole process.

There is a compressor engine on the back of the unit. It is fixed in a special oil and covered with a protective casing, which you can see in the picture.

It consists of an electric motor made of starting and working winding, as well as a relay.

Three outputs are connected to the case, one of which is common. The other two lead to a start-up and a working winding. The latest models of refrigerators have an electric circuit that can regulate the speed of the engine.

 

Health check

For what reasons the compressor stops working:

  • Burned. This happened as a result of a sharp jump in voltage and increased load.
  • The start-up relay broke.
  • The wiring is faulty.

It happens that the device buzzes and works, but there is no cold in the cells. The cause may be the release of the gas-freon. Then it is better to consult a specialist who will detect a leak and refuel the system.

To find out if the device is working or not, use a multimeter. Once you get to the engine, you need to make sure that the body does not breakthrough. Otherwise, it can electrocute. Most often, this happens in old refrigerators. Attach the multimeter probes to the body and each contact alternately. If the display shows “∞” then everything is fine. If the numbers appear on the scoreboard, the winding is faulty.

To perform further diagnostics, you need to dismantle the casing and open access to the compressor. To do this:

  • Disconnect the wiring from the contacts.
  • Snack the engine tubes that connect it to other parts.

Importantly! Find out what type of refrigerant is used in your fridge before you start work. This gas can be explosive.

  • Unscrew the fastening bolts of the casing and remove them from the case.
  • Unplug the relay by twisting the screws.
  • Now take the device to check and measure the resistance between contacts.
  • Attach the probes to the right and left exit contact. Normally, the resistance will be 30 Om. The top right will show 15 Om, and the top left will show 20 Om.

Based on the engine model and the refrigerator itself, the values may differ ± 5 Om.

  • If the readings do not match, the device is faulty. If there is a precipice somewhere – a conventional or inverter motor is to be replaced or repaired.

The compressor has passed the test, but the technique does not work? So, start further tests, but not a tester and a gauge.

  • You need to measure the pressure.
  • Connect the hose with a drain to the fitting.
  • Start the engine.
  • Measure the pressure.
  • Indications with a healthy device should be 6 Atm and raise. In this case, you need to disable the gauge quickly. Otherwise, it will break.
  • If the pressure does not reach 6 Atm, such an engine can be installed in medium-sized refrigerators. The readings reach 4-5 Atm, which means that the motor can be used in single-chamber refrigerators. A compressor with a pressure of less than 4 Atm is non-working.

The health check has been passed, but there is no result. The unit is still not turned on. In this case, you can set the engine performance directly, without the start relay.

Importantly! Such works are life-threatening. Either a master or an experienced person can make such a diagnosis.

Connect the engine through the cord in a scheme:

As a last resort, you can check whether the engine is working through a relay. Perhaps the current does not reach the device.

  • Before this diagnosis was carried out without a relay, now connect it to the engine.
  • Start.
  • Arm yourself with a tick tester.
  • Squeeze the ticking network wire that leads to the device.
  • Look at the indicators: at 140 W., the current should be 1.3 A. With a power of 120 B – 1.1-1.2 A.

Besides, diagnose the launch relay. A multimeter also measures his contacts.

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